Science HacksAdventures in Hacking Mother Nature
Home-Made Bismuth Crystals
This picture on the left shows some bismuth crystals I grew this summer. Bismuth is a metal that is easily molten and will form beautiful crystals when it solidifies. These hopper crystals,
as they are known, naturally form into brightly colored cubes,
intricate square spirals, or ziggurat-like pyramids. They are
trully very alien looking.
I purchased about three pounds of 99.9% pure Bismuth metal from an
eBay seller Hallmark Metals. The price was $8.50 per pound, plus
shipping. Shipping will bring the price up to about $12 per pound. I
purchased two small LEE brand lead melting pots from JAX. These
stainless steel pots, normally used for melting lead for shot-making,
are about two-inches high and three-inches in diameter and hold
about 200mL when filled to the brim (a little under a cup).
Melting the bismuth is surprizingly easy. I used a small portable
electric range, although others have done this using their kitchen
ranges as well. I erred on the side of caution and did it in my patio,
placing the range in a large drip-pan as a precaution against any
spills. I placed a one pound chunk of bismuth in the melting pot,
turned the heat up to maximum and allowed it to heat up for about 20
minutes. When molten, the bismuth will flow just like mercury and
resemble molten solder. It tends to form a crusty layer of slag,
so it's handy to have something to scoop that off with. An L-shaped
expansion slot cover from a computer worked nicely for me. I also had
lengths of wire from an old coat hanger which I could form into various
tools to poke and prod my molten brew.
Once the bismuth is fully molten, turn off the heat and it will
solidify completely in about half an hour. If you do this, you will end
up with a nice hockey-pucked shaped bismuth paper weight, which is only
moderately interesting. Poking at it (with a long length of coat hanger
wire and when wearing gloves, not with your bare hands!) as it
solidifies will reveal much about the manner in which it hardens. You
will notice that it forms a thin-crust at the surface, and solids will
begin to form around the submerged insides of the pot, as these parts
will cool off the most rapidly.
Coaxing crystals out of this requires some experimentation. One way is
to allow it to cool for a few minutes (four minutes tends to work for
my setup), then pour the molten bismuth into the other melting pot.
What is left behind will be a shell of bismuth which hopefully have
some crystals in it. One of my largest crystals formed on the cool
sides of the lead pot as I poured the material from one pot to another.
Another technique is to submerge the tips of short lengths of wire in
the molten metal. These were attached to the bottom of a computer heat
sink whose purpose was to draw heat away from the wire and hopefully
promote the growth of crystals. The heat sink and wire are lifted after
a couple minutes and hopefully crystals will have formed on the tips. A
friend and I experimented with this technique and we had some moderate
success with it.
Clean up is fairly straightforward. The solid bismuth, because it
expands as it cools, tends not to stick to the pot very well, so you
can easily pry it off one pot and combine it with whatever is left in
the other pot. It is also easy to pry chunks of bismuth off your tools
and remelt it with the rest. As you repeat the melting process over and
over again, you will notice that a grayish crud tends to accumulate on
the surface of the melt. This is a combination of pure bismuth and a
rough, gray, flaky waste material that lacks a metalic luster. I scoop
this out and dump it on a peice of tin foil for later triage. If it has
significant shiny metalic parts in it, you may be able to extract pure
bismuth from it by remelting, otherwise it is waste material.
Ingredients:
- Three pounds of 99.9% pure bismuth metal
- Two lead melting pots
- Small electric range
- Coat-hanger wire and other metal parts for stiring and proding molten metal.
- A set of pliers for lifting the hot pot
- Welder's leather glove or insulated mitts